Cruising the Norwegian Fjords on P&O's Iona

Discover what it is like to cruise around the Norwegian Fjords with P&O Cruises on Iona. With tips on what to look out for when booking this type of cruise and my experience in each port.

With incredible landscapes and picture perfect views, the Norwegian Fjords are one of those destinations that should be on everyone’s travel wish list.

One of the best ways to experience the fjords is to sail through them which is what I did after a few false starts thanks to the cruise shut down a few years back. Thankfully, it was more than worth the wait.

So, I thought I’d share my personal experience of what is was like cruising the Norwegian Fjords on Iona with details of what I did in each port. I also share some tips on what to consider if you are planning a similar trip.

Jump To

Planning a Norwegian Fjords Cruise

The Norwegian Fjords cruise season generally runs from around April to September. During this time of year, the fjords are accessible for cruise ships subject to weather conditions.

Many of the main cruise lines sail in this area of the world. They offer a variety of itineraries with Alesund, Bergen, Flam, Geiranger and Olden being some of the popular ports of call.

I travelled with P&O Cruises. They have couple of Norwegian Fjords itineraries on Iona. Early and late in the season, cruises stop at Alesund instead of Hellesylt.

Britannia will also be cruising the Norwegian Fjords the next few seasons but with a slightly different itinerary. I will trying one out later this year and looking forward to seeing how it differs with the experience on Iona

So, before booking it’s worth taking a bit of time to think about what you like to see and do on the cruise. Particularly, if you would like to see the UNESCO World Heritage site of Geirangerfjord.

When is the best time to cruise the Norwegian Fjords?

As always, the best time is whenever you can go. The Norwegian Fjords are so incredibly scenic, I don’t think it really matters when you see them as long as you do. That said, there are definitely some considerations to keep in mind when deciding what time of the season to cruise.

Price

The Norwegian Fjords are a popular family destination so expect prices to rise when school is out for the summer. You are more likely to get better deals early or late in the summer when there is slightly less demand.

Weather

The weather in and around the fjords is unpredictable so you are taking a chance whenever you book.

A good example of this is the week of my cruise in early June. We had some unusually hot weather, 24 degrees was recorded on Iona’s bridge in Olden. We had no rain all week and mostly clear blue skies for the three days around the fjords.

A few weeks previously, Iona was unable to make it into Olden due to high winds and the week following my cruise the weather was a lot cloudier, greyer and had some drizzle. So you just never know what you are going to get.

No month is guaranteed perfect weather. Just book and keep your finger crossed.

Midnight Sun

Finally, the further north you go the longer the days are. I don’t think we quite reached the full midnight sun region but the further north we went, the more noticeable how late the sun set became.

It was quite odd sitting in the Crows Nest bar with a drink at almost midnight and it was still light outside.

If you are a light sleeper you’ll definitely want to think about going either side of the main summer time when the days are not so long…or booking an inside cabin.

I decided to book early June. Partly due to the availability on the itinerary I wanted and so I could avoid school holidays.

What cabin to choose for a Norwegian Fjords cruise?

Once you’ve decided to go, choosing a cabin is the next big decision to make. With such a scenic destination, I decided to splash out on a balcony cabin.

My home for the week on Iona was cabin 5454. This was a balcony cabin but perhaps not the type of balcony you expect when booking one. Low down on the ship, the balcony felt like it was cut out of the side of the ship. Close to the water, it was great to be able to look out at the waves and try to spot some sea life.

Being sheltered it gave some protection from any potential bad weather – always a possibility in the fjords. However, being so low down, there was a metal storm door that covered the balcony door when closed. If the weather is very bad or the seas are rough, this will be shut. So the cabin will turn into a seaview one.

Thankfully, that wasn’t needed on my trip but something to be aware of if booking one of these cabins.

There is just about enough room for two chairs and a small table on the balcony. So, not enough room to stretch out but it was perfect to sit with a cuppa and enjoy the scenery as we sailed in and out of the fjords.

The location of the cabin was very good. On the floor beneath the Gala deck, it was very easy to get to the Grand Atrium, three of the main dining rooms and all the facilities on decks six to eight. It was just a short walk away from the midship lift lobby which gave easy access to the higher decks.

Inside the cabin was a queen bed, dressing table, sofa, wardrobe, large TV and bathroom with complimentary shower gel and shampoo. Importantly, especially for us Brits, there was also a kettle and plenty of tea bags.

Overall it was a very comfortable cabin and one I would consider booking in future.

If you prefer to spend your time exploring the ship an inside cabin may be a better (and certainly cheaper) option. I don’t think not having a balcony cabin would make the cruise any less enjoyable. There are plenty of spots around the ship to get a great view of the scenery. But if you like to sit on your balcony – or don’t want to leave your cabin early for the sail in – then a balcony cabin is worth considering.

What to pack for a Norwegian Fjords Cruise

Layers. Layers and more layers.

Unfortunately, I didn’t really follow my own advice. Having visited fjords and glaciers in other countries where it was usually a bit cold, I packed mostly jumpers. I had planned to get up early for the sail in, take the Loen Skylift to the top of Mount Hoven and hike to the Briksdal Glacier. So, my thinking was it would be a bit chilly.

Wrong.

The weather gods were shining and we had warm weather and bright sunshine most of the time. In Olden, we reached a high of 24 degrees. I was very glad I had packed the jumpers (eye rolling emoji here!). Honestly, I was sweating.

That heat was quite unusual but does illustrate that the weather in the Norwegian Fjords can be unpredictable. So, when packing think of T-shirts, thin long sleeved tops, hoodies and waterproof jackets that you can layer up or take off as necessary.

If you plan to be on deck for the sail in or out then think about taking some warm clothes. Even in the summer it can get cold on deck and there can be quite a breeze.

Standing on deck at 4.30am, I was happy I’d made a last minute decision to throw my winter hat in but not so happy I forgot my gloves. It was a lovely sunny morning but very cold in the wind. Yet walking along the track to the Briksdal Glacier later than morning, I was ruing the fact I didn’t bring any summer clothes as it was absolutely boiling.

So my best advice is pack for all eventualities and you should be ok.

My Norwegian Fjords Itinerary (and cruise review)

Overview

Southampton / Stavanger / Olden / Hellesylt / Haugesund / Southampton

The cruise departed Southampton on Saturday evening and we had a day at sea before arriving in Stavanger on Monday morning. From there we headed to Olden overnight, sailing through Nordfjord and Innvikfjorden early in the morning.

After a full day in Olden, we had a ‘cruise by’ of the two fjords as listed in the itinerary. This seems to confuse lots of people when booking but all it really means is sailing out along the fjords. So, those that didn’t fancy an early start to watch us sail in can enjoy the sail out instead.

We had just four hours at sea before entering our next fjord, Storfjorden. From there we sailed along Sunnylvsfjorden arriving in Hellesylt around 6am.

We spent most of the day in Hellesylt, leaving around 4pm to cruise along Geirangerfjord. Iona sailed up to the Seven Sisters waterfall where the ship turned around, allowing both sides to see the tallest waterfall in Norway.

Tip | Since my cruise I’ve heard Iona no longer sails along Geirangerfjord. If you would like to experience this UNESCO World Heritage site then you will have to do this from one of the nearby ports either on a shore excursion or independently.

We then sailed back (or ‘cruised by’) the three fjords before heading to our final destination, Haugesund. We had a full day here before starting the journey home. The final day was a sea day and we arrived back in Southampton around 7am, a week after we had left.

I chose this itinerary as it originally included Geiranger so I was a little disappointed this was changed at the last minute to Hellesylt. Particularly as the excursion I had booked for Geiranger was cancelled too. However, now I’ve been, I think perhaps I got the best of both worlds.

I managed to get a last-minute place on a trip to Geiranger to tour some of the scenic viewing points over the fjord, including the famous Flydalsjuvet lookout (probably the most photographed view of the Norwegian Fjords). There was also time to explore a little of Hellesylt on the return.

So, if you have been looking at a cruise like this or have had Geiranger removed from your itinerary, there are still options to see the town and Geirangerfjord so don’t despair too much.

You also get the bonus of a port that you might not have thought about visiting. Hellesylt is an incredibly scenic place in its own right.

Other destinations in the Norwegian Fjords that are included on itineraries and worth thinking about visiting include Alesund, Bergen and Flam. P&O Cruises do offer some cruises with these places on the itinerary however, you may need to widen your search to other cruise lines.

Stavanger

The fourth-largest city in Norway, Stavanger has an interesting history, a charming feel, lots of culture and some sensational landscapes on its doorstep. Known as the gateway to the fjords, the city was a great place to start our cruise. A taster of what was to come later in the week.

Sailing into the Stavanger, the water was calm and serene. The ripples from the ship broke the stillness as we gently made our way into the city. We were fortunate with the weather, not a cloud in the sky and the sea seemed impossibly blue, glittering and sparkling in the morning sun.

The ship docked next to the old town, Gamle Stavanger. Instantly recognisable by the small white wooden cottages, it wasn’t hard to see why this historic area is one of the most-visited parts of the city.

Wandering through the cobbled lanes, old-fashioned street lanterns and colourful flowers that bloom from many of the dwellings makes you feel like you are taking a peek at the Norway of old.

With so much on offer, there is almost an overwhelming choice of things to do in Stavanger. To make the most of your time here, I recommend planning in advance what you’d like to do here.

Popular shore excursions include cruising the Lysefjord, hiking to Pulpit Rock and visiting the Swords in Rock monument. Other activities on offer include RIB tours, paddleboarding, segway tours, Nordic walking tours and deep-sea fishing. Or just wandering around taking in the charm of the city.

I decided to do a bit of both. A P&O’s shore excursion of a cruise along the Lysefjord, which included passing by the Pulpit Rock in the morning and a wander around the city in the afternoon.

Shore excursion | Cruising The Lysefjord and Pulpit Rock from Stavanger

After disembarking the ship, it was a short walk along the harbour to where a smaller ship was waiting for us just behind Iona. Our excursion was a three hour cruise of the Lysefjord with a stop at the end for refreshments.

As we sailed through the Stavanger archipelago, dodging the small islands that seemed to be dotted everywhere you looked, we caught glimpses of the holiday homes and cabins that line the coastline.

When we reached the fjord the captain slowed the ship at various points of interest so everyone had the chance to have a good view, while our guide shared information and stories.

The scenery was spectacular, the light colour of the jagged rock face a stark contrast to the cornflower blue sky. Highlights included scenic coves, cascading waterfalls and of course the famous Pulpit Rock.

As spectacular as it looks in photos, I’ll be honest it is a little underwhelming to look at from the bottom of the fjord. It looks pretty small from down there.

Although I suppose that just shows the immense scale of the fjord. Every now and then you could see the odd person looking out and the camera flashes, giving away the viewing point up there.

Before heading back to Stavanger, there was time for a quick stop at Lysefjord-Helleren, where the waffles are as spectacular as the views. Easily the best waffle I’ve eaten. I had two to confirm this.

It was a great trip overall. The ship had excellent facilities with plenty of seating inside and on deck. Our guide was fabulous, she was engaging, informative and funny.

The only disappointment, if you can call it that, was that Pulpit Rock was perhaps not the highlight of the cruise as advertised. I’m not sure I’d have even noticed it if our guide hadn’t pointed it out. It is very easily missed.

So I’d recommend this tour for the wonderful cruise of the fjord (and of course the waffle) but Pulpit Rock? I think the hike to the top might be a better option. Talking to some fellow passengers, it sounds like a tough hike but the view was worth it.

Olden

This was one of the ports I was looking forward to the most and I didn’t want to miss a minute. So, I set the alarm for 4.20am as I’d heard that we would be entering the fjord around then. Within 10 minutes I was at the front of deck eight with five other hardy souls as we began our journey along the fjord.

Watching the sunrise as we twisted and turned our way along the fjords was a pretty magical experience. There wasn’t a cloud in the sky and as we glided through the water there was hardly a sound – hard to imagine with such a big ship. Well apart from the wind, which at times felt like it was blowing a gale. When that subsided, it was really peaceful.

Snow-capped mountains sparkled in the warm morning glow. The meadows and trees seemed impossibly green with patches of warm coppery brown leaves almost matching the cabins dotted about.

The villages along the coastline seemed to offer an idyllic way of living. I may have been drunk on the moment at that point but it seemed to me those people were doing life right. Though I wondered how they got their shopping. I bet that’s not easy.

It seemed with every corner we turned there was another picture-postcard image waiting for us. I actually began to think we’d just carry on down there forever. Alas, it had to come to an end and around the final corner was the tiny village of Olden.

In the shadows of the mountains at the southern end of one of the branches of the Nordfjord, Olden is a beautiful little village surrounded by a wealth of natural beauty. Whether you like dramatic glaciers, rugged mountains, crystal clear lakes, tumbling waterfalls, or picturesque views, Olden has it all in the surrounding area.

In fact, I found although we had most of the day in port, there was nowhere near enough time to do all the things I wanted to. Eventually, I decided on the hike to Briksdal Glacier in the morning and the Loen Skylift, which also included a visit to the Kjenndalen glacier first, in the afternoon.

2024 Update – I’ve actually booked another cruise to Norway so I can visit Olden again. This small place leaves a big impression on you.

Shore excursion: Briksdal Glacier

Once we had docked, it seemed everyone wanted to disembark immediately and honestly, I didn’t blame them. This tiny village, with its ridiculously scenic backdrop, seemed to offer so many possibilities.

I made my way through the throng of people and quickly found coach number eight. This excursion to the glacier was definitely popular.

The scenic journey through the Olden Valley took around 45 minutes and included a short stop at the beautiful Oldevatnet Lake.

As with pretty much every view in Norway, it was incredibly picturesque. Trees and vegetation in every shade of green possible climbed up the mountains before fading out along the craggy rock face. Tinged with snow, the mountains were reflected in the crystal clear glacial water of the lake, providing a memorable mirror image.

Back on the coach, it wasn’t long until we arrived at the Briksdal Mountain Lodge, a restaurant and cafe that is the starting point for the hike to the glacier.

The walk to the edge of the glacier takes around 45-60 minutes, although this is if you amble along at a reasonable pace and stop to take a few photos and enjoy the scenery. Trust me you’ll want to do that.

Lined with tumbling waterfalls, cascading glacial streams and stunning views back down the valley, the hike is an attraction in itself. I wondered if the glacier would match up. Thankfully, it did. Suddenly, around the corner, we were at the glacial lake with the arm of the glacier crawling down the rock face.

I’d read the glacier had retreated a lot recently, so I was a bit worried it wasn’t going to have that wow moment but it certainly did. The sheer scale of the valley and the thickness of the ice you can see is breathtaking.

However, when you compare it to photos from only 15 years ago the shrinkage is really quite shocking. It would have been quite something to have seen when it reached the lake. It was a stark warning that things aren’t quite right.

The way back down is slightly quicker, particularly if you take the slightly less scenic route. Although you do get to meet the local residents – a herd of goats – this way and have a go on surely what is one of the world’s most scenic swings.

Arriving back at the lodge, tea and cake (lots of cake) were waiting for us which was very much welcome. It was a great opportunity to catch your breath and swap stories with fellow passengers.

I really enjoyed this excursion and would highly recommend it if you visit Olden. Whether you do it yourself or with a tour.

If you don’t fancy the hike or are less mobile, there is an option to visit the glacier by troll car. These are little buggy-like vehicles that drive you most of the way up. They take you about 700m away from the glacier so it is a much shorter walk, maybe around 10 minutes or so.

However, if you can walk it then I’d recommend you do. It gives you a much better opportunity to really take in and enjoy the incredible scenery.

The journey back to the ship offered a second chance to enjoy a scenic drive and included a quick photo stop at a heart-shaped rock by the lake.

Shore excursion: Loen Skylift and Kjenndalen

In the spirit of cramming as much into my day in Olden as possible, I booked the trip to the Kjenndalen Glacier and Loen Skylift to get some views of the fjords from above for the afternoon.

So arriving back at the ship, it was off one coach and straight onto another. The Skylift was the main attraction for me and in hindsight, I probably should have paid more attention to what I was booking. Although at the time I don’t recall seeing any stand-alone trips to the Skylift.

The trip departed at 1.30 and as the guide ran through the schedule it transpired we wouldn’t get to the Skylift until 3.45. First, we had a trip along Lovatnet Lake with a couple of stops for scenic viewpoints.

When we reached the glacier, we had less than 10 /15 minutes there before we had to be back on the coach. The walk to the viewpoint took around eight minutes so it was a case of taking a quick photo and heading back.

It turned out the guide hadn’t realised the time so we had less time than usual there. That said, any longer there and we would have missed our slot on the Skylift. In fact, the guide did mention something about potentially not getting there in time so it was a nervous drive back.

Thankfully, we made it and after being given out tickets we piled into the cable car and started the climb up to the top of Mount Hoven. It took around seven minutes to reach the top, travelling at a speed of seven meters per second.

The view at the top is simply spectacular. If you are like me you probably have an image in your head of what looking out over the fjords is like. This is it and more.

It’s like watching tennis with your eyes moving from side to side, you don’t know which view to keep looking at. You really feel like you are on top of the world.

Sadly, all too soon it is time to return to earth. I think we had about an hour up there. Enough time to enjoy the view although personally, I’d like to have had a little longer there, it was the highlight of the afternoon. And quite possibly the whole cruise.

I’m not sure if I’d recommend this tour. Yes and No. Our guide was great and the afternoon was very interesting. However, having visited the Briksdal Glacier in the morning, I probably didn’t need to see another one in the afternoon.

It also felt like a lot of driving around, over two hours in total, for a couple of quick stops where you had just a few minutes at each. The main attraction (for me at least) was the Loen Skylift and that seemed tacked on at the end.

In hindsight, I think it would have been better to have made my way to the Skylift independently and this is something I will do on a future visit.

2024 update – I’m returning to Olden this summer and plan to visit the Skylift again but not as part of an excursion this time.

Olden had one last surprise for us before we left. Well kind of, if you have done your research before visiting, you know the locals like to say goodbye to cruise ships in their own special way. I won’t spoil the surprise, in case you have a trip planned, but make sure you are starboard side when it is time to leave and prepare to get a bit emotional.

Hellesylt

The small village of Hellesylt sits at the head of the Sunnylvsfjord. This attractive village is perhaps a little overshadowed by its more famous neighbour, Geiranger, but it has a lot to offer itself.

Splitting the village into two parts is the Hellesyltfossen waterfall. The water thundering down into the fjord below provides a rare opportunity to get a close-up look at how powerful nature can be.

As a last-minute change to the itinerary, I had no plans for Hellesylt other than wanting to try to get over to Geiranger as that was the main reason for booking this itinerary and not the earlier one P&O offered.

Shore excursion: Geiranger scenic views

I had a stroke of luck and managed to get a cancellation on a tour of scenic viewpoints of Geiranger that was just about to leave.

First, we joined the public ferry between Hellesylt and Geiranger. This took around an hour. Although Iona was going to do a cruise by Geirangerfjord and the Seven Sisters waterfall that evening, it was a special experience sailing the fjord on a much smaller ship. You felt totally dwarfed by the majestic mountains, it makes you feel very insignificant.

Once we arrived in Geiranger, it was onto coaches to begin our tour of the viewpoints.

Zig zagging up the Eagle Road with its 11 hairpin bends to the Ørnesvingen viewpoint gave a hint of what was to come. However, stepping off the coach straight into a panoramic view of the fjord still took your breath away.

To the left is Geiranger itself, looking tiny against the backdrop of the steep mountains and hillsides. The right provides a view back along Geirangerfjord, where the s bend starts and gives a glimpse of the Seven Sisters waterfall.

Behind the viewpoint and over the road from the parking area is a waterfall pouring down the rocks. The spray flying out of it providing a welcome opportunity to cool down in the morning heat.

It was hard to leave that view but with more viewpoints to visit, we were soon on our way again.

Leaving the fjord for now we headed to Eidsvatnet lake, known as one of Norway’s best fishing lakes by a main road. Like seemingly everywhere in Norway, it is impressively scenic.

At this point, it felt like there couldn’t be anything left to wow us but Norway had one more amazing view up its sleeve.

If you have ever seen a photo of the Norwegian Fjords, it is probably the one from Flydalsjuvet. Used in hundreds of travel brochures and Instagram posts, Flydalsjuvet offers uninterrupted views across Geiranger and beyond. It’s an iconic view of the fjords

There are two viewing areas to enjoy the scenery from. The upper platform looks directly out over the town and fjord, while the lower one is slightly to the side. Both provide simply stunning views, you almost have to pinch yourself to make sure you are actually here and not dreaming.

It was the perfect way to end the tour. Well almost.

Arriving back into the town, there was just enough time to wander around the souvenir shops and grab an ice cream (the best way to end a tour), before heading back to Hellesylt on the ferry.

As Iona left Hellesylt, a slight detour was made so those that were not able to get over to Geiranger still had the opportunity to cruise along Geirangerfjord and see the Seven Sisters waterfall. Once we reached the waterfall, Iona did an impressive about turn so both sides of the ship had a chance to get a closer look before beginning the long sail out back to sea.

Haugesund

Our final stop on the cruise was Haugesund. As I had planned two pretty full-on days, I deliberately kept this day free. However, in hindsight, I think it would have been better to have powered through and booked an excursion.

After three such spectacular destinations, it was always going to be a tough act to follow for Haugesund. If I’m being honest, it was a bit of a disappointing end to the cruise. Though that is probably a little unfair on the city as there does seem to be lots of interesting things to see and visit in the surrounding area.

I did have a nice wander into the centre with some of my fellow solo passengers. We visited the Marilyn Monroe statue, enjoyed a cuppa in a fabulous cafe and met some participants of the annual Viking festival beginning in Avaldsnes that afternoon which made our day.

However, it wasn’t long before I returned to Iona to spend the afternoon on the ship. If you are cruising the Norwegian Fjords and your itinerary has a stop here I’d highly recommend booking an excursion such as a tour to Skudeneshavn or a hike to the Langfoss Waterfall. That is definitely what I’ll be doing next time!

The last word

My Norwegian Fjords cruise was easily one of the best travel experiences I have had. It really is a stunning destination. I was very fortunate with the weather but I think it would be a great place to visit whatever the weather.

Each destination on the itinerary had lots to offer. Although on this trip, I used P&O’s shore excursions, there were plenty of do it yourself options available. For those that were not doing excursions, each location was easy to have a wander round.

It truly is one of those destinations that has something for everyone.

If you like to visit the Norwegian Fjords on Iona head over to P&O Cruises for more information.

Cruise Lines, Norway, P&O Cruises

Cruising the Norwegian Fjords on P&O’s Iona